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MOTOWN Iron Heads


Designed for use in racing applications where cast iron heads are mandated or for larger displacement small block street-type engines, World’s 220cc intake MOTOWN heads are the ULTIMATE cast iron SBC head.

Employing RightCast ports, big 2.080” diameter intake valves and a highly efficient 64cc combustion chamber, the MOTOWN provides significant power increases over other heads on the market.

They are ideally suited for use on small block Chevy engines of 383” or larger displacements.




$700 Bare

Call or email for assembled prices.  We will assemble to your specifications and application.

Alan at (785)506-1410
alan@covertspeed.net

 Product Spotlight

World Products
Motown Intake Manifold

While most manufacturers of small block
Chevy intake manifolds have designed
theirs around 350 CID engines, World
Products has developed a very efficient
manifold that’s proven to increase
performance by 15-25 horsepower over
the competition in larger displacement
(383 c.i.d. and up) engines.

In addition to out-powering the competition, it’s important to note that these single plane manifolds are designed to operate most efficiently in the 2500-7500 RPM range, yet have the low-end throttle response and torque comparable to a dual plane. Look inside the plenum and you’ll see a “turtle” on the manifold floor that helps bottom-end performance.

Models that accommodate a 4150-style
carburetor are available for standard SBC (P/N 061040) and “Vortec” (P/N 061041) heads. Also available machined for an Accel EFI unit (P/N 061040-EFI) or with a 4500 Dominator-style flange (P/N 061050).
$291.99  PURCHASE




Readers will also benefit from the advice of Daytona 500-winning engine builder Keith Dorton, and will follow the builds of an all-aluminum 800-hp dirt-track motor by Clements Racing Engines, a NASCAR Late Model Stock-style restricted motor from Dorton and Automotive Specialists, and a Street Stock engine by KT Engine Development.

Table of Contents
  • Getting Started
  • Block Preparation and Machining
  • Short Block
  • Cylinder Heads and Valvetrain
  • Street Stock Engine Build
  • NASCAR Late Model Stock Engine Build
  • Dirt Late Model Engine Build
  • Break-in, Regular Maintenance and Teardown
  • Engine Build Sheet
  • Source Guide

         ONLY $17.46  
              BUY NOW 





#77- Back to Basics

Category: Tech Talk

Featured in National Dragster

Written By David Reher

I traveled backward in time last week. It happened while we were rebuilding a big-block Chevrolet engine. This particular engine won the 1982 NHRA Pro Stock championship, and overhauling it was like firing up a time machine.

We’re creating a replica of the championship-winning Reher-Morrison Camaro that will be displayed in the Hendrick Motorsports museum in Concord, N.C. I consider it an honor to have one of our race cars alongside Rick Hendrick’s stable of NASCAR champions. We’re out front with the fact that it’s not the real car – the original is under the care of a collector in West Texas – but the motor is the real deal.

In its time, this was the baddest big-block Chevy in the country. Today there are better parts and more advanced technology in just about any bracket racing engine we build at Reher-Morrison.

I’m looking at this killer engine from 1982, and shaking my head. The genuine GM aluminum cylinder heads still have “X” marks on the castings that signify they were made with cores we’d shaved at the Winters foundry. It’s got stock-diameter lifters, without a lifter bushing in sight. Aluminum rods as big as clubs, stud-mounted rocker arms, and spindly pushrods – that was the state of the art 28 years ago.

Seeing an artifact like that 1982 Pro Stock engine reinforces my belief that we are currently living in the Golden Age of engine development. Many of today’s off-the-shelf parts are superior to the handmade, high-dollar, top-secret components that powered yesterday’s record-setting Pro Stocks. In fact, I sometimes fantasize about racing one of our Super Series sportsman engines back in the day when the Reher-Morrison Chevrolets were battling Glidden, Johnson, and Iaconio for the top spot in Pro Stock. I think it would have been a powerful weapon.

My intention is not to wallow in nostalgia, but to point out the strides in materials and technology made by aftermarket manufacturers. There is a multitude of aftermarket blocks available in a variety of configurations. If a customer wants a block with a 55mm cam, I can order one from the manufacturer instead of boring out the cam tunnel on a mill in our shop. If a racer wants cylinder heads with a 14-degree valve angle, I can get them with a phone call instead of spending days building up the decks with aluminum welding rod. Life is definitely good for racers and engine builders these days.

Unfortunately the law of unintended consequences hasn’t been repealed, and there is a downside to this rich bounty of parts. As always, the devil is in the details. With so many manufacturers producing so many variations, finding compatible parts can be extremely difficult for do-it-yourself engine builders. Just consider the myriad differences among “conventional” big-block Chevy cylinder heads in valve diameters, valve angles, guide locations, and combustion chamber shapes. A piston dome that fits one head perfectly can be a total disaster with another head. The height of the valve seats, the location and depth of the valve reliefs, the profile of the dome, the lift and duration of the camshaft, the rocker arm ratio, and a dozen other design features all must be considered.

I’m told that GM has produced more than 95 million small-block V-8 engines. Replacement parts are available from any well-stocked dealership or auto parts store, and there is a reasonable expectation that every part will fit every engine. The market for specialized racing components is tiny in comparison, with no standardization among the various aftermarket manufacturers. Every manufacturer has a notion about how to make better parts – that’s what drives the performance industry. With this continuous development, it’s up to the engine builder to make sure that the parts will work together.

Building an engine is an enjoyable and rewarding experience for many racers. That’s how I got started in racing, and I’m grateful that eventually it became my livelihood. But for some people, engine building is an exercise in frustration.

I believe there are some basic skills that must be mastered to build an engine successfully. These include the ability to degree a camshaft, check piston-to-valve clearance, locate valve notches, measure valve angles, verify dome-to-head clearance, and align the intake manifold runners. There is no lack of information on these topics: Books and videos are available that describe these procedures in detail, and several schools teach the fundamentals of building racing engines.

High-tech parts can be enticing, but a successful engine builder doesn’t overlook the basics. For example, when you’re building for maximum power, compression ratio matters. Piston-to-valve clearance is a major factor in determining compression ratio because the valve pockets are typically the largest surfaces on the piston dome. If the valve reliefs are deeper than necessary, it’s easy to give up 10cc or more of dome volume. That can mean the difference between a 15:1 compression ratio and a 13:1 compression ratio – and two full points of compression will have a huge impact on performance.

What good is a set of the latest high-dollar CNC-ported cylinder heads if the compression ratio is under par? Few racers have the equipment and expertise to test cylinder heads, but anyone can check the compression ratio with a burette and a piece of Plexiglas. It’s a basic skill of engine building.

I’m continually amazed at the subtleties of engine building. Just changing from one brand of lifters to another brand can change the engine’s oil pressure by eight or 10 psi. How is this possible? Take a close look at the oil grooves in the lifters. An annular groove acts like a restrictor to reduce flow through the oil gallery; a straight hole allows more oil to move through the lifter body and consequently reduces oil pressure. An inexperienced engine builder would be looking at the oil pump to fix a problem that’s really caused by a difference in lifter designs. That’s just one example of the complexities of a racing engine that’s assembled with parts from dozens of suppliers.

Looking at the parts and pieces from that 1982 Pro Stock engine, it’s apparent that we didn’t know what we didn’t know. If we had understood the importance of valvetrain dynamics, the performance benefits of lightweight parts, and the impact of combustion chamber design, our engine would have been much different. We simply didn’t have the parts and the knowledge to build a more powerful engine; we did the best we could with what we had to work with.

The evolution of engine technology never stops. I’m sure that 30 years from now, some builder will tear down a 2010 Pro Stock engine and wonder, “What were they thinking?”



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 Racing Secrets

ENGINE TIPS:

Starting a New Engine
By Don Terrill (c)

Nothing is more nerve-racking than starting an engine for the first time. Here are some tips and reminders
for getting it right:

Prime the oil pump - It's best to do it right before startup, but anything is better than nothing - even if you just pull the coil wire and crank it (assuming you're not breaking-in a flat tappet cam).

Set the lash - I recommend setting the lash on the tight side for startup. Given the low rpm it probably doesn't matter, but it is a move in the right direction.

Set the distributor - This is where many racers have problems. Here are two methods I use:

* Rotor location - Turn the crank to 30+ degrees before TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder number one and install the distributor so the rotor points to
number one plug wire on the cap. For more accuracy, consider any mechanical/vacuum advance the distributor may add at startup, and which edge of the rotor tip actually does the firing - usually it's the trailing.

* Spark - The method above should work like a charm, but for a little more assurance you can pull the number one plug wire off at the spark plug, loosen the distributor so it moves easily, install a spare plug in
the end of the wire, ground the plug by putting the threads or ground strap in contact with grounded metal
on the car, turn the ignition on and then quickly turn the distributor back and forth with your hand to find
the exact point where the spark happens.

Crank extra timing in it - Everyone wants to be safe when they start a new engine, which leads many to
starting with little or no ignition advance - which leads to hot exhaust valves and glowing headers. Don't
be afraid to run more than normal - with little or no load, or rpm; nothing bad can happen.

Double check the plug wires - Want a sure way to set your hair on fire? Just mess up the plug wires and put your face over the carb as the engine is cranked. If that doesn't sound like fun, give the wires one last look-over right before startup.

Use a known carburetor - This is no time to be trouble-shooting a carburetor. If you have any trouble
getting the engine to start, you can rule out the carb since you used one of known quality.

Check fluids - Not many people miss the oil, but I have seen the aftermath of engines run without coolant - not pretty.

Funny observation: Have you ever noticed how many people show up to watch a new engine being started? I
swear, men have a sixth sense that tells them when someone is about to start an engine, and they show up
in mass. I've joked I was going to set up a grandstand and start charging for admission. Is it me or have you noticed the same thing? My advice: Don't tell anyone
when you plan on starting your engine. Let the peanut-gallery go to the theatre where they belong.

     
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